Before civil war broke out it was one of the finest cities in the region, nicknamed 'The Pearl of Asia'. Now, Phnom Penh is regaining this reputation: yellow-ocher buildings, squares and cafes, and tree-lined boulevards give it an appealing atmosphere. The city is located at Chaktomuk (which means 'Four Faces'), at the confluence of two arms of the Mekong, the Bassac and the Tonle Sap rivers.

Under the direction of then US Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, the countryside was carpet-bombed to “root out” the Vietcong, the communists fighting American forces in southern Vietnam. This military strategy drove the rural population into the capital, creating an overpopulated metropolis of hungry people, and paving the way for the eventual Khmer Rouge takeover under Pol Pot.

When wandering around Cambodia's capital today, it's hard to believe Phnom Penh was almost deserted during the Khmer Rouge regime. On the 17 April 1975, Phnom Penh became a ghost town, emptied out by the Khmer Rouge within 48 hours. Left were only soldiers and prisoners.

A number of buildings were blown up or demolished, including the Catholic Cathedral and the National Bank. Up to two-thirds of the city’s houses were damaged and the plumbing system was destroyed.

The horrible past is visible in Tuol Sleng, the Genocide Museum, a schoolhouse-turned-prison where up to 17,000 victims of Pol Pot's excesses were tortured before being led to the Choeung Ek, one of many killing fields in Cambodia. Grisly, but an absolute must if you want to try understand Cambodians today.

It has been a long road to the peaceful and growing Phnom Penh of today. With the country now stabilised, Phnom Penh is steadily being restored to former glories as the Cambodian economy recovers. Despite ongoing high unemployment, the streets are lively, and there is an unmistakable optimism in the air.

Today Phnom Penh is a charming, relaxing and harmonious city, offering visitors peaceful moments of a sunset at the riverside as well as its dusty, motorbike-choked labyrinthine alleys and busy markets.

Traces of the city’s former splendor are visible at the Royal Palace, a stone showpiece of classical Khmer architecture, enclosing the Silver Pagoda, a jewel-encrusted wonder. The National Museum houses the world’s finest collection of Khmer artifacts. Throughout the city, you'll see not only faded glory of aged French colonial architecture, but restored historical structures as well.

Phnom Penh has a pace of its own, and you'll find a lot to catch your eye, whether it is the glut of luxury vehicles, the sprawling local markets, the interesting architecture or its friendly and open-minded citizens.

So, apart from the obvious attractions, what else could you do in Phnom Penh? Well, our first choice would be: just wander around and take in the sounds, the colours and the fragrances of Phnom Penh. See buddha statues made by skilled workers right on the street, smell coffee being grinded right before your nose, enjoy the colours of flower markets. Also very colourful: a traditional wedding of which you can see many during 'wedding season' (basically, the dry season). In other words: explore and enjoy this city!

If you want to go on shopping after the Russian Market closes, visit the Night Market on Street 108. It's only open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Almost all of the goods on offer are locally made.

For a taste of traditional Khmer culture, head to the Sovanna Phum Arts Association on Street 360 (corner of Street 105). Experience a unique performance at their theatre, every Friday and Saturday night at 7:30pm. Performances include shadow puppet theatre, classical apsara dancing, folklore and mask dance.

An integral part of culture is the local cuisine. To get a better understanding of this, enjoy a day of cooking at the Cambodia Cooking Class.

See? Lots of things to do in Phnom Penh. Stay another day!